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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.