Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
